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<Naar motorupgrades  <To motor upgrades

H0/H0e
Spur N Gauge
H0/OO

Fits Bemo without flywheel with wheelbase 46.2 mm, Art 1609 906 H0e/H0m and HO.

Conversion Bemo Wismar Railbus (older version)

to 12V coreless motor

What you need for conversion set

- The model and upgrade kit

- Small flat screwdriver

- Soldering iron 15W/25W


Good to have:

- General modelling tools


Installation time: Around 45 minutes

Please note: This kit has been changed slightly in February 2026. Except for the motor wires now already connected, the rest of the installation is the same.

Art. BE1006-1


Contents of the kit

1x 7x16 mm motor

1x motor casing

2x M0.3 worm

KASTENLOK INDEX

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Question? Just reach out!

1

Take note of the fragile parts

You might want to be very careful with the two brass whistles on the roof, so lay the model on/in something soft.

2

Take the housing off

The bottom part has 4 tabs that fit into holes in the window panels. The biggest mistake people make here, including me, is to put the cocktail stick between the outer body housing and the window, but it should be between the black bottom frame and the window. If you pull the body out with force, you would break the clips in the window panels. Put the body housing aside.

3

Remove on of the side skirts, by just pulling it upwards (towards you). This will also release the bottom panel, as it is the side skirts that hold this panel in place (important to know when re-assembling the model).

Taking apart the bottom frame

4

Remove the screws in the PCB board. Don’t lose them.

5

De-solder wires

The wires can actually stay connected to the model for later use, but I decided to replace these clumsy wires for Ultra thin wire.


Take the PCB out, which will reveal the motor.

6

7

8

Remove all items

When you unscrew the two screws next to the axles, you can take the whole assembly out. Take good notice on how it all fits together and how the parts hold each other in place.

Fit worms on shaft

Push the worms on the shaft, no glue is needed. Be careful with the plastic backing of the motor. If you push to hard on the other side, you’ll push it out. The distance from worm end to end is 32mm. 

Motor assembly

The wires of the motor go through the hole at the bottom. If I don’t forget, the motor and worms are already fitted for you.

If you have the version without wires, note that the contacts should go vertical. Top will be + (see small sign next to contact). The motor is not been pushed in completely yet. After soldering the wires to the motor, push the motor completely in the casing until it can’t go further.

9

10

10

Solder motor wires to the PCB. Follow the colour advice. If you swap this, your train will run in the opposite direction of all your other models. You can make the cables shorter if you want. I would.

Cut PCB

You don’t need any of the parts that are soldered on the PCB, except for the contacts. Cut those parts of with a (ideally Xuron) side cutter. Screw it back in place, after you have placed the motor assembly.

Fit motor

11

Fit bottom plate

Close the bottom with the plate. Remember that the tabs of the plate go into a hole in the side bars, not under the tabs on the side bar. You’ll see the holes just above (seen from the bottom) the side bar tabs.

12

Reassemble model

Test if it runs well, then close the model.

This motor upgrade kit can very well be converted to DCC. Here I’ve used the Zimo MN160, which is a very flat decoder, with only components on one side. The blue/black/white cables are for the stayalive.

The Zimo STACO4 stayalive PCB is fitted in one of the side pockets next to the motor. Wrapped in Kapton tape, to avoid contact with the frame (the frame which has power from the track!). This all will sit nicely under the window level. If you paint it black, it will not be obvious.



Check the digital setting page, for many other decoders, to get the best driving experience with a coreless motor.

Digital conversion

If you have any problem during the installation, don’t hesitate to contact me.


Sven

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